The era of disposable cars may be over, at least for a while. The trend of trading in before the new car smell wears off is fading fast.
Many drivers had a very short-term mentality about their ownership. Two years, it needs to go. It’s old. Used. Something shiny and new was available. Rather like a very expensive cell phone or handbag.
Times have changed quickly and drastically in the world of auto sales. Most people can no longer afford to trade in or up. Financing is elusive and not nearly as attractive (read: more money down).
What do we do? We keep our cars and maintain them to last another two or three years, or more.
I remember rebuilding a carburetor for my 1966 mustang (among other self-repairs) because I was young and broke and could not afford a mechanic. Today, good luck just finding where to add oil or windshield wiper fluid under the hood. I had to get the manual out to find where the jumper cables attached when the battery died in my 2006 BMW 330i.
So here is how we all get through it.
First, if you are out of warranty or nearing the end, consider investing a few thousand in an extended warranty. The cost of repairs over the next three years may be so much more than the cost of the warranty (which you can pay monthly on a credit card, and transfer or cancel if you sell the car). The catalytic converter for my 2003 BMW (thankfully under warranty) was $3,000, of which I paid nothing. After-market Warranties can be purchased from dealers approved to sell them, including Aspen Luxury Motors.
Get to know your car. When is the manufacturer’s recommended service intervals? Have you exceeded the time for routine oil changes? How about transmission, cooling and power-steering fluids? It’s all in the book that is taking up space in the glove box.
We all know that correct tire pressure yields better gas mileage. But proper wheel alignment yields better tire wear. Which in turn provides a safer ride.
Do some research about the repair before having it done. There are some interesting sites that provide general information on pricing of specific repairs for your year, make and model car and give advice on finding a repair facility as well. Check out DriverSide, RepairTrust and RepairPal for starters. And don’t be embarrassed to get a second opinion on a large expensive repair.
Dealer vs. Local Shop repair – up to you. You can get a poor mechanic in either place – its the luck of the draw. If you have a warranty in effect, the likely choice is the dealer. If you have an older car, out of warranty, do you really need the factory part? Will another supplier’s part work for less money? Remember that if you are paying, hourly labor rates vary from about $60 to $100 for local shops and $100 to $150 for dealers.
Here’s something I’ll bet you did not know. Paint. When you finally go to trade in your car, if there is “new paint” somewhere, like a door or fender repainted, be prepared for the dealer to offer you less money than you thought. New paint, while quite attractive to you, means an undisclosed “accident” to the dealer. So if you have dings and scratches, quickly use touch-up paint to prevent rust. Only repaint if it really needs it.
If you can keep it garaged, great. The less exposure to the elements, the longer life overall. Hand washing is not only cheaper, but less abrasive to the car.
There will always be something out of the blue that could go wrong, and much earlier than you expect in the life of your car. So be prepared with knowledge, insurance, warranties, whatever it takes to lessen the financial impact over the time you expect to own the car. If you are uncomfortable about the car the older it gets, look into a roadside service plan.
While we take care of these cars to last a few more years, we can dream about that shiny new car waiting for us at the end of this road.

